Saigon Eats : Bun Bo Hue



Hue - photo courtesy of vietnamuniquetours.com



Huế is the capital city of Hue province. Between 1802 and 1945, during the reign of the Nguyen dynasty, it was the imperial city. This feudal dynasty dominated much of southern Vietnam in those times.

Now where there is royalty, there is good food, presented beautifully.  The theory is - the palace cooks and the citizenry in general do their utmost to please the king/emperor. 

And so, Hue cuisine is regarded in Vietnam as the best.

Besides phở, another popular Vietnamese soup is bún bò Huế. Key ingredients are rice vermicelli (bún) and beef (bò). It usually includes thin slices of marinated and boiled beef shank, chunks of oxtail, and pig's knuckles. Bun bo is commonly served with lime wedges, cilantro sprigs, sliced onions, thinly sliced banana blossom, mint & basil, and mung bean sprouts. Fish sauce and chili sauce can also be added to taste.

There's a restaurant chain which goes with the same name.

The one we frequent is the one in 39 Ngo Duc Ke St. (District 1, Ho Chi Minh City). It's usually full, especially during lunch time. 

We enjoy the fragrant, hearty, spicy soup and generous chunks of meat and meatpaste.

After an afternoon of shopping, my daughter and I were famished and tired, and headed there for some snack.  We sat by the window.  It was 5pm, only a few diners were inside.

There was the banh nam on the table (glutinous rice with minced shrimp wrapped in banana leaf and steamed).

We opted instead for a platter of steamed mini-cakes made from rice flour and cassava flour,  and with shrimp and meat topping/filling.  These were eaten with nuoc mam (fish sauce).

Hue cuisine is characterized by small serving sizes with a refined presentation.


We also had a bowl of soup each.  This time I tried the one with crabmeat paste.

with crabmeat paste

with beef flank and pork paste

A serving of the house yogurt refreshed and cleansed the palate afterwards.



Such a simple, satisfying meal.  The cost was quite reasonable at VND 250k (US$ 12.50) for us two.

Plus we had some free entertainment - cockfighting right by the window where we sat.

         







In case anyone is wondering why Huế ceased to be the capital after 1945 ...

On August of that year, Emperor Bảo Đại abdicated to Hồ Chí Minh, who unified south and north Vietnam. The capital of the government became Hà Nội in the north.

L'usine - The Coolest Cafe in Saigon

L'usine, for me, is the coolest cafe in Saigon. The place has character, food is good, and so is the service.

I've brought many of our guests here. Like me, they loved the place. I concede it could be quite noisy (poor acoustics) and the service slower when full, but that's the case in most eating places.

We checked out its second branch at 70B Le Loi St., which opened last October.  At the ground floor is the lifestyle shop.  

We lingered a bit to check the merchandise.

The kids love the cool gadgets like lomo cameras. My first time to see Marou dark chocolates made from 100% Vietnamese coco (80% cocoa). Luxe Cochine stuff - votive candles and skin care products;  there are three fabulous fragrances, White Jasmine & Gardenia, Water Hyacinth & Lime Blossom, and Vietnamese Rose & Delentii.  I can't resist getting a few drops of lotion from the tester.

But I digress.

Up a flight of wooden stairs is the cafe on the first floor.

The interiors is as cool as the one in Dong Khoi. It also felt more spacious, though I'd think the area in front of the counter would be cramped when full.

Again, I loved the touch of colourful fresh flowers on the table.

Acoustics was bad, with all-concrete walls  (as with most cafes in Saigon). The service is more efficient (not too many customers perhaps?).

 The western menu is written on the board.

At the counter are the luscious cupcakes.

Also the magazines. 

Red-win beef pot pie

The food was quite good.

We had roast beef sandwich and red wine beef pot pie; both came with a small portion of salad.

Roast beef sandwich

The mango smoothie and the carrot juice had the right level of sweetness. My coconut juice was served in a glass with the coconut meat - I prefer it that way, more convenient.

A meal would typically cost VND 150-200k (US$7.50-10) per person. Not cheap in Vietnam, but then again, this is an uppity-lifestyle cafe.  Quality food and a cosy ambience do add to the bill.

I like it as much as the first one in Dong Khoi. Still a great place for a meal and to hang out.

Below are a couple more pictures of the ground floor shop.
 

Nha Hang Ngon, Saigon

Ngon restaurant is our default restaurant when craving for Vietnamese food.  Housed in a colonial-style building with big windows,  the food is good,  the price is right, and the place does not feel cramped, though most times its bustling with locals and tourists.

We also like to bring guests here;  their appreciation of Vietnamese food is deepened by the experience.



Che (sweets) on earthen bowls

The restaurant boasts of variety, with different food purveyors from appetizers to main course, drinks and dessert.  The vendors used to be street vendors,  those who excelled in the local dishes they prepare,  gathered into one location.  Brilliant concept, eh?

This restaurant is much blogged and written about,  nothing new for me to add. 

Cha Gio (fried spring rolls)

Go around first and see the purveyors preparing the dishes. Dining in the courtyard and the upper floor is recommended.  The big windows and airy ambience make the dining experience more pleasant.




Bun Bo Hue noodles

Quan An Angon at 160 Pasteur St.

Saigon Eats : The Elbow Room

Saturday afternoons are my me-time. Reading a book, taking a nap, getting a massage, or catching up with friends.  I had a great time today with my friend R.  the trust and openness we have towards each other makes our conversations truly enjoyable.  There's confidence  that what's been shared between us remained between us.

Since I could not say anything about what we talked about, I'm wiring about the cafe instead.

The Elbow Room is a delightful little place along Pasteur St.  I liked the ambience, it was quiet and relaxing (except for when a young Japanese boy who threw a tantrum and started screaming and kicking).  The deco was simple but charming. The service was almost flawless,  the servers were attentive but not intrusive.

From what I had, I'd day say the food is nothing to rave about. Not bad but nothing very noteworthy either. I chose the Elbow Room smoothie, it was not smooth at all, it had loads of icicles; the coffee was good and the vanilla syrup made it taste a bit more special;  R swears by the spicy shrimp pasta though. 

To be fair, I havent tasted must of the food in the menu.  I plan to come back with the kids for brunch;  the Chef's Specials and the all-day breakfast seemed interesting.

 

Sunday Lunch at Ngon Restaurant

We usually go out for lunch on Sundays.  It's a simple way of breaking the monotony of the week, especially for the kids.  After all, Sunday is rest day.

We like Vietnamese food. Simple, flavorful, with lots of greens/veggies so healthier, I suppose.  One of our favorites in Saigon is Ngon restaurant in Hai Ba Trung St.

The restaurant is in a colonial French villa, with high-ceilings and tall windows;  though usually crowded, the place is airy and charming, especially at night. 

It's different from the older Quan An Ngon.  Both are very popular with tourists, with similar concept of having some of the best streetfood in Saigon housed under one roof.  The kids liked to go around the food stalls, watching the food being prepared - steaming soup which servers ladle from huge cauldrons to bowls, greens and fresh herbs, glutinous rice dishes with various types of fillings, skewered chicken/beef/pork being barbecued...

Vietnamese fastfood,
with the dishes assembled upon ordering



Che (sweets/desserts) in earthen pots,
mostly cooked in coconut milk



We went there for lunch today.  It's our maid's day-off, and I wasn't in the mood to cook. The place was bustling as usual.  Cha gio as starter, then we each had noodles or rice as main dish and a dessert - the bill came up to less than VND 600k/US$60. Quite reasonable and we all felt full and satisfied.

Cha Gio (Vietnamese fried spring roll)



Steamed rice with porkchop
and shredded porkskin

 

L'usine

I need a quiet, kind-of-private place to unwind (me-time), where M and I can have a date, or to have bonding time with my kids.  My friend G introduced me to L'usine.  Bless him.

I super-love the place. It's really cool. It's part cafe, part boutique. Love the cupcakes, too.

The boutique at the back is a lifestyle concept store.  Clothes, shoes, belts, accessories are nicely displayed. They got Moleskine notebooks, Aiaiai (the Danish brand) headphones, lomography cameras, some Vietnamese knick-knacks.  

Cupcakes are VND 50k apiece,
a cup of coffee or tea from 45-65k 

They've put on Christmas decor early!

Brownies - my favorite

I've gone there a number of times,  typically on a Saturday afternoon. I have a sweet tooth,  and always orders hot chocolate and brownies (I love brownies!) or a chocolate cupcake (S'more or choco coco).  Comfort food in a comfort place.